ALARM INSTALLATION GUIDE
1993-1997 Honda Del Sol
WARNING! Alarm installs should only be attempted by experienced security installers only. Information presented is without any representation of warranty. It is the responsibility of the installer to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Proper installation remains the responsibility of the installer.
DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY IF THE VEHICLE HAS AN ANTI-THEFT CODED RADIO. IF EQUIPPED WITH AN AIRBAG AVOID DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY IF POSSIBLE. MANY AIRBAG SYSTEMS WILL DISPLAY A DIAGNOSTIC CODE THROUGH THEIR WARNING LIGHT AFTER THEY LOSE POWER. DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY REQUIRES THIS CODE TO BE ERASED. THIS MAY CAUSE UNNECESSARY TRIPS TO THE DEALER FOR SERVICE.
BEFORE BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION:
-Roll down a window to avoid being accidentally locked out of the vehicle.
-Turn off the domelight or remove the domelight fuse. This prevents draining the battery.
-Consider what options will be installed
-Make sure you thoroughly read and follow information contained in your alarm's manuals.
-Make sure you have all necessary accessories for the installation
-door lock interface module
-door lock actuators (one per door if the vehicle is without power door locks)
TOOLS REQUIRED:
-Digital Multimeter
-Wire cutters/ strippers
-Soldering iron
-Cordless power drill
-Nutdrivers or socket set
-Drill bit set, 1/2" Unibit
-Phillips head screwdriver
-Panel removal tool
-Drop light
(other tools may be required for some installations)
COMPONENT LOCATIONS:
ALL ALARM COMPONENTS MUST BE MOUNTED SECURELY
CONTROL UNIT
-Install the control unit securely in a safe, dry place inside the vehicle.
-Do not mount the control unit in the way of any moving parts
-Do not mount the control unit near any heat sources.
-Mount the control unit in a way that it does not vibrate or rattle.
-Never install the control unit under the hood.
-Avoid installing the unit anywhere easily visible under the driver's side dash. The first place a thief will go when attempting to steal a car is the driver's side under dash to access the starter and ignition wires. If the control unit is easily visible, it can be disconnected and defeated during a theft attempt.
-Some good locations are above or behind the glove box, under the center console, above the under dash fuse box, or in the dash behind the radio.
-The same tips apply for other components such as window modules, door lock interface modules, etc.
SIREN
-The siren must be mounted securely under the hood.
-Mount it away from any heat sources or moving parts
-Mount the siren where the siren cannot be seen or reached from below the vehicle.
-Point the siren down to avoid water collecting in it.
-Protect and conceal wiring by wrapping it with split loom or vinyl tubing and rounting it alongside factory wiring.
-Always run the wire into the vehicle through a grommet. Do not run the wire through bare metal.
-If a factory grommet is not available, carefully drill a hole and install a snap grommet.
-Take care in drilling through the firewall or mounting the siren to the firewall. In some cars, fuel lines and wire harnesses run on either side of the firewall.
SHOCK SENSOR
-The shock sensor should be securely mounted underneath the dash.
-Use double sided tape or a wire tie to secure it to an air duct, wire harness, or trim panel.
-Avoid mounting it in the way of any moving parts or relays.
-Avoid mounting it near any heat sources.
-Avoid mounting it to the steering column or screwing it to metal as it will cause poor sensitivity
LED
-The LED should be installed in a place visible from both sides and the rear of the vehicle
-It is best to install the LED on a small removeable panel like a blank switch or dash bezel. Check for clearance on both sides before any drilling.
-Use quick-disconnects near the LED if the panel is removable. This allows the panel to be removed without having to cut wires
ALARM OVERRIDE SWITCH
-The alarm override switch should be mounted in someplace hidden but convenient.
-Good locations include behind the hood release lever, inside the ash tray opening, inside the center console (where it can't be accidentally bumped), or in the glove box.
-Before drilling, check for clearance on both sides.
STARTER KILL RELAY
-The starter kill relay should be ran away from the steering column
-The starter kill relay should not be easily visible upon removing the under dash panel
-Solid wire connections must be made
-Wires should be wrapped in 3M electrical tape or plastic tubing to match the factory wiring.
FINDING THE WIRES NEEDED:
WARNING! Do not use a 12V test light to locate or test any wires! A test light may cause serious damage to vehicle electronics. Only use a digital multimeter to test circuits.
-12V Constant
-Two possible sources
-The (+) terminal of the battery
-The constant 12V supply of the ignition switch.
-Always fuse within 12 inches of this connection.
-Fuse accordingly
-12V Ignition wire
-This wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position.
-Most often found in the harness coming from the key cylinder.
-To find 12V ignition with a multimeter:
1. Set meter to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire with the (+) probe. The steering column harness or ignition harness is an excellent place to find this wire.
4. Turn the ignition key to the run position. If your meter reads 12V go to the next step
5. Turn the key to the start position. The meter should remain steady. If it drops close to or all the way to zero, that is not the correct wire. Go back to step 3. If it stays steady at 12V that is the ignition wire.
-Starter wire
-The starter wire provides 12V directly to the starter or a relay controlling the starter.
-The starter wire is often found in the harness coming from the key cylinder.
-To find the starter wire with your multimeter:
1. Set your meter to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire with the (+) probe.
4. Turn the key to the start position. If the meter reads 12V go to the next step
5. Cut the wire you suspect of being the starter wire
6. Attempt to start the car. If the starter engages, reconnect it and go back to step 3. If the starter does not engage, that is the correct wire.
-Chassis ground
-Connect this wire to bare metal, preferably with a factory bolt rather than your own screw.
-Screws tend to either strip or loosen with time.
-Ground all components to the same point.
-If a screw must be used, connect chasis ground to bare metal and use a star washer to ensure a proper ground connection. Check for clearance on both sides before drilling.
-Parking light wire
-Hondas use a (+) parking light circuit. The (+) parking light wire is often found near the fuse box or in the driver's kick panel.
-To find the parking light wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire
4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows 12V, turn off the parking lights and make sure it goes back to zero.
5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on, and turn the dimmer up and down. If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer, look for another wire. If it stays relatively close to 12V, that is the correct wire.
-Door trigger wire
-Hondas use a (-) door pin trigger. This means when the door is open, the switch sends a negative voltage to the domelight circuit.
-The door trigger wire can usually be found in these cars near the fusebox, in the driver's kickpanel, or at the factory alarm/keyless module.
-To find the (-) door pin wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (+) probe to 12V constant
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire with the (-) lead
4. The meter should indicate 12V with the door open if you have found the correct wire
5. The meter will then read 0V when the door is closed.
-NOTE: For domelight supervision connect the alarm's domelight supervision output as shown below.
-Trunk trigger wire
-Hondas have a light in the trunk that comes on when the trunk or hatch is opened. If this is the case, most alarms have a separate imput for a hood pin or trunk pin that can be hooked to the trunk trigger wire to set off the alarm if the trunk is opened.
-This wire can often be found near the fusebox, at the factory alarm module, or in the driver's kick panel.
-To find the trunk pin trigger wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (+) probe to 12V constant
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the trunk trigger wire with the (-) lead
4. The meter should indicate 12V with the trunk open if you have found the correct wire
5. The meter will then read 0V when the trunk is closed.
-Door lock wires
-Hondas with factory power door locks are negative (-) triggered.
-To find the door lock wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the trunk door lock wire
4. When the switch is at rest, the meter should read 12V
5. Lock the door with the switch. The meter should read 0V or close to it. If it does, that is the correct wire.
-To find the door unlock wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door unlock wire
4. When the switch is at rest, the meter should read 12V
5. Unlock the door at the switch. The meter should read 0V or close to it. If it does, that is the correct wire.
-Vehicles without factory power door locks require the installation of an actuator in each door. This requires mounting the door lock actuator inside the door. The fuse used on 12V inputs should be 7.5A per motor.
-2 relays can be used to interface the door lock actuators to the alarm (one for lock, one for unlock)
-To wire the alarm's (-) lock wire to the relay:
1. The (-) lock wire from the alarm is hooked up to pin 85 of the relay
2. A fused 12V constant is hooked up to pins 86 and 87.
3. Chassis ground is hooked up to pin 87a
4. The green wire to the door lock actuator is hooked up to pin 30.
-To wire the alarm's (-) unlock wire to the relay:
1. The (-) unlock wire from the alarm is hooked up to pin 85 of the relay
2. A fused 12V constant is hooked up to pins 86 and 87.
3. Chassis ground is hooked up to pin 87a
4. The blue wire to the door lock actuator is hooked up to pin 30.
-Doorlock interface modules are also available at most car audio shops to make actuators much easier to interface to an aftermarket alarm.
WIRING THE ALARM AND MAKING YOUR CONNECTIONS
-What makes or breaks an alarm is the installation. The best alarms on the market will not properly protect a vehicle if they are poorly installed. All components MUST be properly and securely mounted.
-Proper planning must be made for how wires will be routed throughout the vehicle. Wires should be carefully wrapped to match the vehicle's wiring.
-Connections should only be made by crimp connectors or solder connections. When properly performed, both connections are reliable and trouble free.
-When soldering, use a drop cloth to prevent solder drips and burns on the vehicle's carpeting
-Make sure connections are mechanically sound and insulated.
-Make certain that wires cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point.
-Cheap electrical tape is not a reliable insulator.
-It often falls off in hot weather.
-Use good-quality electrical tape, such as 3M, or heat shrink tubing
-Never twist-and-tape wires together without soldering
-Never use "fuse taps".
-They can be easily defeated
-They can damage fuse box terminals
-Avoid using T-taps, especially in high current connections.
-Poor connections offer high resistance and create many problems.
Radio removal:
NOTE: Factory provision is for a front load DIN stereo.
1. Remove the 2 screws (one on each side) securing the radio mounting housing.
2. Remove the 2 screws (one on each side) securing the front of the console.
3. Remove the screw inside the console pocket.
4. Remove the 2 screws (one on each side) securing the back of the console.
5. Remove the ashtray assembly.
6. Carefully remove the console by lifting up, unplugging the lighter and pulling out.
7. Unscrew the shifter knob and remove.
8. Carefully pry out on the top of the radio housing to release the clips securing it to the sub-dash and remove the housing.
9. Remove the screws securing the radio to the sub-dash.
10. Pull the radio from the cavity, unplug and remove.
Front door panel removal:
NOTE: An aftermarket 6.5" speaker will fit. Some modification may be required for some speakers.
1. Carefully remove the cover cap in the door release housing and remove the screw inside.
2. Slide the door release housing forward to release the hooks securing it to the door.
3. Remove the cover cap in the door pull handle cavity and remove the screw inside.
4. Carefully remove the plastic fastener from the top inside corner of the door panel.
5. Using a door panel removal tool, carefully pry the perimeter of the door panel releasing the clips securing the panel to the door.
6. Lift up on the panel to release the panel from the window lip. Carefully route the door release housing through the panel and remove the panel.
7. Remove the screws securing the speaker, unplug the leads, and remove.
Rear speaker removal:
NOTE: An aftermarket 6.5" speaker will fit. Some modification may be required for some speakers.
1. Carefully remove the plastic panel in between the two speaker grills on the rear wall of the vehicle with a panel removal tool.
2. Remove the 2 screws securing the speaker grill behind the removed panel.
3. Using a panel removal tool, release the fasteners around the perimeter of the grill and remove.
4. Remove the 3 screws securing the speaker, unplug the leads, and remove.
WIRING INFORMATION 1993 Honda Del Sol
WIRE COLOR LOCATION
12V Constant WHITE Ignition harness
12V Ignition BLACK/YELLOW Ignition harness
Starter BLACK/WHITE Ignition harness
Parking lights (+) RED/BLACK Green plug top of fusebox
Power lock (-) GREEN/WHITE In driver's door
Power unlock (-) GREEN/RED In driver's door
Door trigger (-) GREEN/RED Driver kick panel
Trunk pin (-) GREEN/BLACK Blue connector above fusebox
12V Radio constant WHT/YEL or WHT/BLU Radio
12V Radio switched YELLOW/RED Radio
Ground BLACK Radio
Power Antenna BROWN/WHITE Radio
Dash Light Dimmer ORANGE Radio
Left Front (+) BLUE/GREEN Radio
Left Front (-) GRAY/BLACK Radio
Left Rear (+) BLUE/YELLOW Radio
Left Rear (-) GRAY/WHITE Radio
Right front (+) RED/GREEN Radio
Right front (-) BROWN/BLACK Radio
Right rear (+) RED/YELLOW Radio
Right rear (-) BROWN/WHITE Radio
NOTE: -The door lock module is in the driver's door. Door panel must be removed to access module.
WIRING INFORMATION 1994-1997 Honda Del Sol
WIRE COLOR LOCATION
12V Constant WHITE Ignition harness
12V Ignition BLACK/YELLOW Ignition harness
Starter BLACK/WHITE Ignition harness
Parking lights (+) RED/BLACK Green plug at fusebox
Power lock (-) GREEN/WHITE Drivers kick panel
Power unlock (-) GREEN/RED Drivers kick panel
Door trigger (-) GREEN/RED Driver kick panel
Trunk pin (-) GREEN/BLACK Blue connector above fusebox
12V Radio constant WHT/YEL or WHT/BLU Radio
12V Radio switched YELLOW/RED Radio
Ground BLACK Radio
Power Antenna BROWN/WHITE Radio
Dash Light Dimmer ORANGE Radio
Left Front (+) BLUE/GREEN Radio
Left Front (-) GRAY/BLACK Radio
Left Rear (+) BLUE/YELLOW Radio
Left Rear (-) GRAY/WHITE Radio
Right front (+) RED/GREEN Radio
Right front (-) BROWN/BLACK Radio
Right rear (+) RED/YELLOW Radio
Right rear (-) BROWN/WHITE Radio
NOTE: -Door lock module is in door. Remove silver cruise module in drivers kick panel and pull door harness out to access 20 pin plug. Lock wires are on door side of plug
TROUBLESHOOTING
-Alarm does not arm or disarm
-Check your power and ground inputs at the alarm.
-Check that all connectors to the alarm are properly inserted.
-Make sure the alarm's antenna is plugged in properly.
-Make sure the remotes are properly programmed.
-Alarm has poor remote range
-Check remote's battery
-Check power and ground connectiongs
-Reposition antenna
-Alarm unlocks the doors with arm and locks the doors with disarm
-Reverse door lock wires.
-Siren does not work
-Check for proper connections
-Check if alarm has been disabled. (valet/override mode)
-Parking lights do not flash
-Wrong wire has been connected.
-Starter kill doesn't work
-Wrong starter wire has been interrupted
-If the starter kill relay is also meant to be hooked to ignition, the wire is not hooked up to true ignition. It is hooked up to an accessory wire.
-Opening the door doesn't trigger the alarm, but closing the door does
-Checi if the (-) door trigger wire of the alarm is hooked up
-The wrong input may have been used.
-Some doors when opened will not trigger the alarm
-Check that all doors have factory doorpins.
-Make sure that all pins are working properly.
-LED doesn't work
-Is it properly plugged in?
-Alarm override switch doesn't work
-Is it properly plugged in?
-Check the alarm's ignition wire. Make sure it is connected and hooked up to true ignition.