List of materials:
1 Sheet of 5/8" MDF board 4' X 8
1 Box of wood screws 1 1/4" long
1 Tube of liquid nails
3' X 5'
sheet of vinyl
Speaker wire
2 10" sub woofers
Tools
1 Table
saw
2 Jig saw
3 Drill
4 Hand held sander
5 Screwdriver
6
Utility knife
NOTE: Please notice that I used a 5/8" thick board not
3/4".
1. Remove your stock storage bins and store them or put them on
eBay
See photo
#1
2. We're going to cut the end pieces and center piece first.
All three pieces are the same size.
Dimensions are 8 3/8" High X 4"
Top Depth X 8" Bottom Depth.
See photo #2
Also photo #2a
3. Next comes the bottom piece.
Dimensions are 10 7/8" Deep X 37 1/4" Wide.
NOTE: the front side of
this piece mst be cut to match the angle of the end pieces.
See photo #3
Test fit the bottom piece in the car to make sure it fits between the
remaining
Interior pieces.
4. The next step is to cut the back piece
for the box.
Dimensions are 37 1/4" Wide X 9" Tall
See photo #4
Test fit all five pieces in the car. The back should fit under the grey
wrap-around
with very little clearance.
After test fitting everything in
the car and making sure everything lines up with each pieces
its time to
assemble these pieces.
Couple of hints that I used:
1. Predrill
each piece before inserting the screw.
2. Use "Liquid Nails" between each
piece.
3. Attach the two side pieces to the bottom first, then attach the
back to
The sides. Finally attach the center divider.
Your box
should look like PIC #5 now with the addition of the center divider.
See photo #5
5. Now the top piece is where we get creative.
Your going to
start by cutting a piece of MDF 46" X 4"
NOTE: The front of this piece must
be cut to match the angle of the sides.
See photo # 6
Now I don't have and exact diagram to show you how to cut the top piece,
so I'll tell you exactly what I did and show you some pics. This process will
take some time and
is necessary for the box to fit right when placed in your
car.
1. Test fit the box in the car.
2. Take a piece of cardboard (
I used a piece of folder) and place it where the top piece would go. Now with a
pencil or pen sketch on the cardboard how the interior curves where the top
piece will come into contact with it. I cut the cardboard till the curve was
exactly the same.
3. Once you have the curve. Take a scrap piece of wood and
cut it to 4" X 12". This will serve as your test piece that you test the curve
cut on.
4. Transfer your stencil to your test piece and make the cut.
5.
Test fit the test piece in the car with the box. Trim where necessary to make it
fit. If you screw up and cut to much, cut another test piece and start over.
6. Once you've got in just right, transfer the curve from your test piece to
the top piece. Mirror the image on the other end. The top piece is already cut
to the right length at 46". It's better to cut a little on the wide side and
trim or sand the curve to the right size.
7. For examples see photo #7 and
photo #8.
8.
Attach the top to the box.
6. The Front piece is the hardest piece to
cut because of all the angles on the sides. You'll approach this piece much like
the top one.
1. Cut a piece of wood 50 1/4" wide X 10 1/2" tall.
NOTE: This piece of wood must be cut to match the angles of the side pieces.
See photo
#9
2. Once again test fit the box in the car.
3. You'll have to
make another stencil for the front piece. Use the same method as the top. See photo # 10 and
photo #11 for the
dimensions for my stencil but keep in mind that your may be different.
4.
Cut a test piece out of scrap wood 12" X 10 1/2", and transfer your stencil to
your test piece.
5. Test fit your test piece and trim and sand till it fits.
remember that you want the top piece and front piece to be flush with each
other. You will also notice that these cut will work better if they are cut on
an angle to match the plastic trim. See photo #12.
6. The
rest is the same steps as the top piece. Be careful and take your time.
7.
See photo #13 for
how you box should look by now.
7. Time to cut the holes for the subs.
A: Temporally attach the front to the box with a couple of predrilled
screws. Just enough to hold it on.
B: Test fit the box in the car.
C:
Recline your drivers seat back and mark on the box where the center of the seat
back hits the box. This will serve as the center line of the sub from side to
side.
D: Remove the box from the car. Using the stencils for the subs cutout
from the manufacture, center the stencil top to bottom using the mark from the
seat for your side to side. I leaned a little to the top for mine, but use your
own judgement.
E: Mirror the measurements on the other end for the passenger
side and remove the front piece from the box.
F: Use the jig saw to cut the
holes for the subs. You'll want to cut the holes a little (1/16") larger than
the stencils because the vinyl will make for a tight fit.
G: See photo #14. It's a
very tight fit for the subs in this box, mine would not fit into the box strait
up and down because of the wire terminals. I had to mount them on an angle.
8. Sanding
After attaching the front to the box you'll need to sand
everything smooth. I used a combo of 180 to 240 grit sandpaper. Sand all of the
corners to take off the ruff edges.
9. Wiring.
I installed a
quick release wire terminal on the drivers side end piece ( sorry no pics) It's
completely out of view when the box is in the car. I also drilled a hole in the
center divider.
10. Wrapping it in vinyl
You may want a buddy
around to help out with this one.
A: Start by cutting a piece big enough to
cover the front and top with about 3 to 4" of overhang.
B: Flip the box onto
it's top and staple the vinyl to the bottom along the front side about an 1 1/2
" from the edge spacing the staples about an 1" apart..
C: Flip the box
right side up and spray the front and top with spray glue.
D: Now stretch
the vinyl up and over the top and work out all of the wrinkles.
E: Staple
the vinyl to the back about 1 1/2" from the edge spacing the staples about an 1"
apart.
F: Here's where it get fun. You and your buddy must stretch the vinyl
over the end curves and work out the wrinkles. NOT AN EASY THING TO
DO!!!!!!!! If you've never done this before then use your test pieces to
practice. TRUST ME IT ISN'T FUN!!!!!
See photo #15
11.
Cutting the speaker holes again.......
After the glue dries ( Read the
directions on the can) Cut the vinyl over the holes using photo #16 as a guide.
Cut along the red lines first then go back and trim along the green line. When
you install your subs it will push the remaining vinyl into the box and create a
tight seal.
12. Install your wires and speakers and your done. I used
polly fill from "Crutchfield" inside my box.
13. Someone asked me how I
secured the box to my car. The answer was simple, I bolted a cable to each side
of the box (See photo
#17) about 3' long. When I put the box in the car I fished the cable through
to the trunk. There I locked each together with a padlock. All of this is hidden
and the box can't be moved with out unlocking it first.
Some Q&A about the Patzbox
#1 - how much polyfill did you use in each side
A: 1 cubic foot. 1/2 in each side.
#2 - how did you strap the cable onto the box for the padlock and how exactly did you padlock it
A: I bought 1/4" cable and made two sections about 3' long. Then I made a loop on each end of each piece. A small loop on one end to put a screw through with a big washer in to the box side. I made a larger loop on the other end of each big enough to side a padlock through. Once the box is installed in teh car I fished the cables through each side and locked the larger loops together. All of the cableand lock is hidden by my amp board.
#3 - any other helpful hints
A: take your time and test fit everything.
i bought the vinyl today, screws, liquid nail, and lowes only has 3/4" MDF board, do you think that will work ok? i didn't buy it yet
A: 3/4 I believe will work, ajust your measurments to accomadate the differance of the wood. You don't want to make the box bigger, It will cause you to lose some airspace but I don't think it will affect anything.
Good luck
Written by Patric Fluegel