Return to Shop K1200RS - H7 HID Installation (cont'd)
CFEC_inprocess01.jpg (70700 bytes)

At left is the cover-cover during fabrication. Using some skills left over from my model airplane days, I fabricated it out of basswood (side rails) and balsa (top). Oh, I can hear the moaning now. Basswood? Balsa wood? Yuck you say? Here´s the deal: Both materials are very easy to work with, making a close fit to the cover an easy task. Once you have it all put together, simply treat all the surfaces with a concoction of 30 minute epoxy cut with acetone (50%). The wood soaks up the epoxy mix like a sponge and the whole thing becomes just as strong as the original cover material. It is also hot fuel proof!! The 1/16" balsa top forms easily to the curvature of the frame rails, which are made of 3/16" basswood. Use Zap® or any other cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue) to facilitate assembly. Once you get the basic frame glued up, use some 5 minute epoxy to add the corner gussets (right photo). Add the top by starting at the rear/bottom edge (flat area). As you approach the curved portion of the rails, tack the top down a bit at a time, using the super glue as you form/roll the balsa down along the curve. Apply a few more drops of glue, roll the top a bit more, hold it for a few seconds, and repeat until you have worked your way to the front/top edge. Once the top has been added, strengthen all the joints with epoxy. Trim any overhang, sand to shape then apply 2 coats of the epoxy/acetone mix, with a light sanding between coats. After the last coat has completely cured, spray on some primer/filler, lightly sand again then finish with flat or semi-flat paint. Once the paint has dried, epoxy it in place over the gaping hole in the cover. I also used some RTV to caulk the edges just to make sure the interface was water-tight.

CFEC_inprocess02.jpg (83136 bytes)
CFEC_finish01.jpg (135660 bytes)

Shown at left is the completed headlamp housing with the new CFEC cover-cover  installed. The small harness is the take-off from the original H7 socket used to control the relay. The large cable is the xenon lamp drive.  Using a Dremel® tool, I cut slots in the lower lip of the headlamp housing just deep enough for each of the cables to pass through and still allow the rubber ring in the factory cover to seal against the cable and housing lip. I used a 3/8" dia. cutter for the large cable and a 3/16" dia. cutter for the small cable.

CFEC_finish02.jpg (75112 bytes)
Harness_relayctrl.jpg (73629 bytes) Since I have the Euro switch gear, I elected to use it to control the HID relay rather than an external switch. The relay control cable shown here was made up with 18ga wire. Male spade lugs were used at one end to plug into the H7 connector and female spade lugs at the other end, which will plug into the relay.
PowerConn01.jpg (143992 bytes) Next is assembly of the power connector.  There is "12" cast into the rear of igniter/ballast module at the connector surround which indicates the positive terminal. I added polarity markings on the harness connector shell for clarity. The flat side of the terminals go toward the centerline of the connector shell which has a detail that locks the terminal into place. Push the terminals into the connector shell until they lock/snap into place. Start the green boots into the shell until the shoulder of each boot is flush with the edge of the shell as shown below at right. Line the blue retainer up with the boots so that the protrusions push on the shoulder of the boots. Push everything home until the retainer locks into place on the shell.
PowerConn02.jpg (145994 bytes)
Harness_complete.jpg (101395 bytes) Shown above at left is how the wiring goes together. The main power feed to the relay contacts is not shown, but is simply a 16ga stranded lead from the battery, with an in-line fuse holder. The black lead with the large ring terminal goes to ground.
Relays_01.jpg (131803 bytes) Shown above at left is where I mounted the relay, as viewed from the front through the fairing support frame. The second relay is for the PIAA 1100x's, which were installed previously. Relay location is not critical, although I prefer to tuck them away from the elements as much as possible.
Relays_02.jpg (118320 bytes) The relay(s) as viewed from the left side of the bike.
 
Module_mount01.jpg (107395 bytes) My original intention was to mount igniter/ballast module to the headlamp assembly. However the module is relatively heavy and I was unsure about the long term affects of that much mass hanging off the back of the cover. Consequently, I elected to mount the module on the front fairing support rails as shown. Note that the left tie wrap goes around the cast connector surround. To gain access to the headlamp cover for removal, only the left tie wrap need be cut. The module will then rotate up enough to slip it out from under the right tie wrap and can be moved to the left and allowed to hang down. The lamp cover can then be removed if necessary. I performed a dry run and with the exception of cutting and replacing one tie wrap, removing the cover and getting to the bulbs is , imho, no more a pita than before. 
Module_mount02.jpg (84419 bytes)
Workshop Home < Previous