PNEUMATIC AIR CYLINDER

The pneumatic air cylinder sounds complicated but actually it is simple to construct. Parts are minimal and relatively cheap and easy to find. I thought that I would be overwhelmed with the construction of this project, but was surprised with how well things went together. This devise can add a new dimension to your haunting experience, your props repertoire will be endless.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

PVC PIPE: You can purchase sticks of PVC in 5 to 6 foot lengths for about $3.00 each. You will need to get two sticks, one in a 1-1/4 inch diameter and another in a 3/4 inch diameter. This will give you enough pipe to make two cylinders possibly three.

END CAPS: 2 end caps are needed for the 1 1/4 inch pvc pipe and one cap is needed for the 3/4 inch pvc pipe. Being that you can make more than one cylinder from a stick of pipe, buy enough end caps accordingly.

DISH WASHER HOSE ADAPTER: This adapter I found at Wal-Mart, this is ideal to create the seal and vacuum needed to operate smoothly. It is a "step-up in size" rubber adapter about 4-inchs long and comes with the matching size hose clamps. (these hose clamps will not be used). It costs about $2.00 and works very well.

AIRLINE FITTINGS: You will need to determine the size of fittings according to the size of airline you will be using. These can be found in any home improvements center. The price varies from 50 cents to a dollar.

PVC CEMENT: A small can of cement is more than enough.

ASSEMBLY:

STEP 1. To determine how long you should make your cylinder, you will have to consider how far out do you want the 3/4 inch pvc pipe to extend out of the 1 1/4 inch pipe when fully extended. In some cases, like the Trash Can Trauma you want enough length so that the pipe pushes the top of the lid open far enough so that the prop inside can be plainly seen, but yet still fit inside the can. In the Hoover project, you would want a longer cylinder so that the pipe is long enough for the prop to go out far enough to be realistic. (note: when the cylinder is NOT extended, the 3/4 inch pipe should extend out of the top about 2 to 3 inches.) Cut the pipe accordingly.

STEP 2. Cement an end cap onto the bottom of the 1 3/4 inch pvc pipe and let dry.

STEP 3. Drill a 3/4 inch hole into the second 1 3/4 inch end cap. You will need to wallow it out a little, so that the 3/4 inch pipe moves freely through the cap. Some play is allowable as this will act as a bleed off when the cylinder is used in the horizontal position and the air is not applied. Place the 2-inch cap over the 3/4 inch pvc pipe. Once this is done, cement a cap on one end of the 3/4 inch pipe.

STEP 4. On the other end of the 3/4 inch pipe attach the dish washer hose adapter onto the bottom of the 3/4 inch pipe. (end without a cap) You will have to cut the rubber adapter to the appropriate size. The tighter the fit the better. When fitted on securely, use a generous portion of electrical tape to secure the fitting. Attaching the adapter with clamps or screws will hinder the travel inside the 1 3/4 inch pipe.

STEP 5. Insert the 3/4 inch pvc pipe into the 1 3/4 pipe with the rubber adapter facing towards the bottom. Slip the 1 3/4 inch cap on snugly. Drill small holes into each side of the cap for small screws to secure the cap. This is done in order to remove the cap for possible repairs at a later date. Be sure the screws used are short enough as not to interfere with the travel of the 3/4 inch pipe. This should give you a fully assembled Air Cylinder minus the air fitting.

STEP 6. Pull the 3/4 inch pipe out about 6 to 8 inches, this is done so when you drill the hole into the side of the bottom end cap for the air fitting, you will not drill into the pipe inside. To determine the size hole needed to drill will depend on the size of fitting you are using. I used a nipple with threads on both ends, and screwed it into the hole and then screwed the fitting onto it.

I noticed that when the 3/4 inch pipe is pushed back down, that the rubber adapter rests on top of the inserted pipe. This is ok, the only problem is when the adapter is pushed past the nipple is when a snag occurs. To fix the snag problem you will have to ensure that the adapter is resting on top of the nipple, or you can mount the fitting directly to the end of the end cap. Take note that this needs to be an air tight connection. I used plumbers tape for the air fitting and JB Weld around the connection of the nipple and the pipe.

STEP 7. All is needed now is the air line and the air supply to be connected. I have played with an aquarium airline splitter for the on and off operation. I also inserted an airline fitting to the end of an air gun. That way all you have to do is hit the lever on the gun. If you go to the links page and go to the Monster List, you will find a more elaborate construction for an automatic air supply connection.

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