1967 Airstream Window Replacement

One of my Overlander’s windows was already broken when I got it. But since the window was Plexiglas, it had merely broken in two, and the previous owner had taken steps to keep the window from leaking too badly. Opting to replace it with Lexan, I found that my owner’s manual had a procedure for window replacement.

As an aid to others facing a similar situation, this page documents the replacement. Below are the words & figures from my owner’s manual. The italic words are my comments. Have fun!

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REPLACEMENT. Should the window glass become broken, replacement glass can be ordered by part number. The name and number of each window is stamped on the sill, approximately 10 inches from the righthand side as seen from inside the trailer. The replacement glass will have the glass bar, arm, and keepers already assembled.

A new glass bar, arm, and keepers did not come with the Lexan replacement window used below. Consequently, the old parts were reused.

To remove the glass: 1. Open the window about half-way. 2. Remove the “E” ring at the top of the window (see Fig. 86a). 3. Push the link to the side of the window until the stud is free from the arm. 4. Rotate the glass bar and arm to a horizontal position. 5. Loosen the set screws in the window glass hinge located at the top of the glass. If any of the set screws should break off flush (as happened in this case), simply drill the screws out, and install new ones a half inch to one side of the drilled-out hole. 6. Apply pressure from the outside toward the trailer to unhook the glass support bar from the hinge. The window may be difficult to remove due to the sealant present in the hinge. Cleaning out as much sealant as possible will make the task easier, but separating the glass bar from the hinge will probably take some time. 7. Clean the seal and check for damage. Cuts in the seal may allow the window to leak; damaged seals should be replaced. If the seal is replaced at this time, make note of how the seal is trimmed where it makes contact with the glass bar. Failure to trim the seal may keep the window from sealing well.

To install new glass: Clean the old glass or Plexiglas out of the glass bar. One method is to clamp the bar in a padded vise, and starting at one end, pry the pieces out of the slot with an old, small screwdriver. Fill the slot with sealant, and push the new window firmly into the slot until it bottoms. Leave the sealant squeeze-out until it cures, and then remove it with a razor blade. 1. Be sure the glass bar is centered in the window frame. The bar should extend about 1/8 inch beyond the glass on both sides. 2. Lubricate the rubber seal as described under Maintenance, making sure to lubricate the rubber under the head section with a brush. ‘Maintenance’ advises a yearly effort of spraying all seals with silicone spray. 3. Lubricate the hinge of the glass bar, using the same lubricant used on the rubber. 4. Reverse the removal procedure outlined above. CAUTION: do not force the glass closed; the hinge sections will be bent and the window will not function properly. When the hinge is hooked properly the glass will swing closed of its own weight. 5. Check the clearances between the sill, keeper, and latches. 6. Place the stud in the hole of the arm farthest from the glass. 7. After installation is complete, latch the window and fill the opening beside the glass and under the glass bar with RTV732 (Dow-Corning Silastic sealant) using a hand caulking gun. Fill until the sealant can be seen flush with the glass bar. Aluminum colored RTV for aluminum, which can be found at home centers, can be used in place of Silastic sealant. 8. Do not open window for at least 24 hours.